Tag Archives: Tree Stump Removal Service Cloverleaf

Tree Trimming Cloverleaf

Is it time to call a tree service in Cloverleaf to remove that old tree? It can be a painful choice to make, but sometimes the tree gets too close to the house, gets too diseased, gets an incurable infestation of some pest, or grows too tall and gets close to a power line. If any of these things occur, its best to do the right thing and get rid of the tree. Although you might have spent hours and hours getting the tree to where it is today, it is almost dishonorable to the tree to allow it to suffer in bad conditions.

Our tree removal service will plan it out, climb up the tree and tie two long ropes near the top. Anchor them on the opposite side of the one that we want it to fall towards. This will allow us to adjust the direction the tree is being lowered in, just in case it starts leaning towards anything it could destroy.

Call Us Now for a Free Quote on Tree Removal, Tree Topping, Tree Pruning and Stump Removal.

Call Now (832) 900-4016

Once the tree is down, stump removal can be slightly more difficult. We have several choices; use a stump chipper that will completely destroy the visible section of the stump. Or we can dig it out. Digging out the stump is much more thorough, but takes time. You can choose to do this yourself or have the family help. If you have kids this shouldn’t be a problem. Kids often find the thought of digging fun, and are excited to go outside and dig all day long with their friends.

Tree Fellers

Tree Service Companies Do Far More Than Just Removals

Thought this article might be interesting about what all is involved in preparing for a tree service job.

I have been running a tree service company for 10 years in Bellingham WA.

The first duty being asked about is the rope and saddle. I use the Buckingham Economy Saddle. On the right side of the saddle I have a Petzl Macrograbber for flipline adjusting. It is secured to the Buckingham saddle with a 5/8ths galvanized shackle.

Also on the right side of the Buckingham saddle I have a three foot lanyard with an autolocking steel clip hard spliced into the end to secure the chainsaw.

On the left side of the Buckingham saddle, I clip a lowering rope and a repelling rope onto the lightweight ring toward the back of the saddle. I use a locking Petzl William Carabiner Tri-Act Gate for the repelling rope.

I am constantly on the look-out for frayed or damaged spots on the repelling rope. I prefer a thicker repelling rope. The ½ Arbor-Plex works well.

The lowering rope I use is determined by the application. Most of the work I do is close quarters and requires lowering of branches and rounds. The lowering ropes vary in length from 150' to 300'.

On the left side of the Buckingham there is a small clip. I carry a Fanno 22" Hand saw. This is used for pruning small branches as I ascend and also as a catch device on situations where I need that extra reach to grab the flipline whipped around the tree.

Other devices on the Buckingham include:

Standard figure 8 for repelling and potential maneuvers while in the tree.

I like to carry a 10' rope flipline with a Prusik hitch. This allows for extra stabilizing before making cuts. It also allows for quick attachment as I ascend through branches, keeping me tied in at all times.

On the left side small ring I have attached a small line that has a wedge secured on it.

The next duty asked to describe on the application is the lift truck operation.

I have owned a 1963 55' Ford High Ranger for four years. First I check all fluids. Brake, oil, transmission, and radiator. As well as the hydraulic tank reservoir. Then I start the engine and do a visual inspection of the engine. I do a visual inspection on the tires and check all the lights for proper working order.

Then I engage the main hydraulic level in the cab and begin to inspect for any broken or damaged hydraulic lines. I lower the outriggers to insure smooth operation. I operate the boom from a manual position on the deck, and then climb into the bucket to test the working order of the bucket hydraulic controls.

I follow all guidelines outlined in the American National Standards manual for Arboricultural Operation/ ANSI Z133.1 Section Aerial Devices. Briefly explained:

I am aware of:

Load capacities of the boom, I set wheel chocks if the wheels are on the ground after lowering the outriggers, I constantly scan in the direction I am travelling, I set up for proper traffic clearances, I maintain proper distance for electrical lines, lift branches off lines with pull ropes before cutting, insure area below before releasing branches to the ground, and constantly monitor for any potential danger.

I operated at this level with the High Ranger for two years. 90% of the tree removals that I do I have to climb. I decided that for me and my business the cost of maintaining the truck was not necessary. I use the bucket truck on my personal property but do not currently use it for my tree service.

Operation of brush chippers:

I have thousands of hours of brush chipping experience. The key to efficient chipping is proper staging of the branches. Cedars are the most difficult. On branches that have multiple smaller branches coming off of the main branch I trim them off. It's easier not to fight the branches when stacking and then feeding into the chipper.

Even when pulling the tree over with bull rope, as soon as the back cut is deep enough I will place my first wedge and hammer it in with a small sledge hammer. This helps to get the tree moving in the desired direction, prevents set back if the rope becomes slack, and helps to keep the chain for binding.

The are many techniques for felling trees. The basic is a face cut, no more than a third way through the tree. When cutting for money I use a humbolt cut, but they take a little more time to do and are not necessary for fire wood applications, so I'll use a conventional face cut on most. As your finishing the depth of the face cut you want to check the gun. There is a small raised mark on chainsaws that allow you to aim the face cut to the desired fall line. With that mark lined up and a straight back cut the tree will grab hold of the hinge wood and cause the tree to follow the desired fall line. There are so many factors involved, and each tree is different.

Proper limbing techniques are important to know for both safety reasons and from keeping the saw from getting pinched. You can lead the branch in the direction you desire by following the same procedure as felling a tree. If you need the branch to drop parallel to the ground you place a cut under the branch and then at full speed place the saw above that cut and go hard. The branch will snap and float down. One way to get the branch to land at the base of the tree is to cut from the top and let the branch break swing down but still be attached. Then make removing cut to send it right next to the tree.

When limbing on the ground you want to be aware of the branch and if there is any tension that would cause it to pop and sling back when you cut it off. I like to start at the top before cutting the main pieces to the ground. I'll go about 10, good size for the chipper and start cutting the limbs off from there. Working my way every 10' till all the branches are off the top.

Bucking large wood is easy if you use a wedge. A peavey or cant hook is used to turn larger logs over. I cut down as far as possible before rolling. Work on the upside of the log. When dropping the last 20' I like to put small long branches in front of the stump coming off. This keeps it off the ground and makes cutting the larger diameter trunks easier. I do the same as I drop major branches onto the ground if possible. Use the dogs to dig into the tree. It's safer than having the chain operation by your feet and cuts into the wood faster.

I subscribe to Arborage, it's a monthly magazine about the tree industry. It talks about the latest equipment and some tree care issues. I use my Western Garden book if there is a particular fruit tree that I need better understanding of how to prune. I do still look over The Fundamentals of General Tree Work. Now with the advent of YouTube, I invest time looking at other peoples techniques to see what I may learn.

Learning for me never stops.

Tim Bento

 

Call Us Now for a Free Quote on Tree Removal, Tree Topping, Tree Pruning and Stump Removal in Cloverleaf.

Call Now (832) 900-4016

Lot Clearing

How to Quickly and Easily Remove Large Tree Stumps From Your Landscape

There are several reasons why homeowners want their tree stumps removed from their yards. Do you have them in your home but haven't considered removing it? The reasons stated below, as well as the simple steps on how you can remove a stump, may change your mind.

Why Stump Removal?

Health & Safety: Perhaps the most important reason for it is to prevent accidents from occurring due to it. Kids who run around the yard may fail to see the stump and trip over it. A rotting tree stump also attracts insects and pests. That's fine if they are confined to your yard, but what's stopping them from making their way into your house?

Convenience: Tree stumps can get in the way of your daily activities. For example, when you're mowing, you have to maneuver your heavy lawnmower every time you encounter it. Accidentally bumping into it can also damage your lawnmower, so it makes sense to avoid this and get the stump removed.

Chemically

If you are a very patient being who can withstand waiting several months to years, choose to remove stumps chemically. This approach is also the least labor-intensive method and an economical one, making it a good option for those seeking to remove many at one go.

Evenly spaced holes are drilled into the stump, which are later filled with stump remover. Over time, the chemical accelerates the rate of decay and softens the wood. This softening allows you to easily axe the sponge-like stump away and remove it completely. Do note that older stumps tend to take less time to rot than younger tree stumps.

As this method takes a fair bit of investment of your time, we suggest stumps that aren't too big to be removed by grinding. Invest in the machinery or simply, hire professionals.

Tree Clearing

How To Deal With Tree Removal After Storm Damage

Thought this article might be interesting about what all is involved in preparing for a tree service job.

I have been running a tree service company for 10 years in Bellingham WA.

The first duty being asked about is the rope and saddle. I use the Buckingham Economy Saddle. On the right side of the saddle I have a Petzl Macrograbber for flipline adjusting. It is secured to the Buckingham saddle with a 5/8ths galvanized shackle.

Also on the right side of the Buckingham saddle I have a three foot lanyard with an autolocking steel clip hard spliced into the end to secure the chainsaw.

On the left side of the Buckingham saddle, I clip a lowering rope and a repelling rope onto the lightweight ring toward the back of the saddle. I use a locking Petzl William Carabiner Tri-Act Gate for the repelling rope.

I am constantly on the look-out for frayed or damaged spots on the repelling rope. I prefer a thicker repelling rope. The ½ Arbor-Plex works well.

The lowering rope I use is determined by the application. Most of the work I do is close quarters and requires lowering of branches and rounds. The lowering ropes vary in length from 150' to 300'.

On the left side of the Buckingham there is a small clip. I carry a Fanno 22" Hand saw. This is used for pruning small branches as I ascend and also as a catch device on situations where I need that extra reach to grab the flipline whipped around the tree.

Other devices on the Buckingham include:

Standard figure 8 for repelling and potential maneuvers while in the tree.

I like to carry a 10' rope flipline with a Prusik hitch. This allows for extra stabilizing before making cuts. It also allows for quick attachment as I ascend through branches, keeping me tied in at all times.

On the left side small ring I have attached a small line that has a wedge secured on it.

The next duty asked to describe on the application is the lift truck operation.

I have owned a 1963 55' Ford High Ranger for four years. First I check all fluids. Brake, oil, transmission, and radiator. As well as the hydraulic tank reservoir. Then I start the engine and do a visual inspection of the engine. I do a visual inspection on the tires and check all the lights for proper working order.

Then I engage the main hydraulic level in the cab and begin to inspect for any broken or damaged hydraulic lines. I lower the outriggers to insure smooth operation. I operate the boom from a manual position on the deck, and then climb into the bucket to test the working order of the bucket hydraulic controls.

I follow all guidelines outlined in the American National Standards manual for Arboricultural Operation/ ANSI Z133.1 Section Aerial Devices. Briefly explained:

I am aware of:

Load capacities of the boom, I set wheel chocks if the wheels are on the ground after lowering the outriggers, I constantly scan in the direction I am travelling, I set up for proper traffic clearances, I maintain proper distance for electrical lines, lift branches off lines with pull ropes before cutting, insure area below before releasing branches to the ground, and constantly monitor for any potential danger.

I operated at this level with the High Ranger for two years. 90% of the tree removals that I do I have to climb. I decided that for me and my business the cost of maintaining the truck was not necessary. I use the bucket truck on my personal property but do not currently use it for my tree service.

Operation of brush chippers:

I have thousands of hours of brush chipping experience. The key to efficient chipping is proper staging of the branches. Cedars are the most difficult. On branches that have multiple smaller branches coming off of the main branch I trim them off. It's easier not to fight the branches when stacking and then feeding into the chipper.

Even when pulling the tree over with bull rope, as soon as the back cut is deep enough I will place my first wedge and hammer it in with a small sledge hammer. This helps to get the tree moving in the desired direction, prevents set back if the rope becomes slack, and helps to keep the chain for binding.

The are many techniques for felling trees. The basic is a face cut, no more than a third way through the tree. When cutting for money I use a humbolt cut, but they take a little more time to do and are not necessary for fire wood applications, so I'll use a conventional face cut on most. As your finishing the depth of the face cut you want to check the gun. There is a small raised mark on chainsaws that allow you to aim the face cut to the desired fall line. With that mark lined up and a straight back cut the tree will grab hold of the hinge wood and cause the tree to follow the desired fall line. There are so many factors involved, and each tree is different.

Proper limbing techniques are important to know for both safety reasons and from keeping the saw from getting pinched. You can lead the branch in the direction you desire by following the same procedure as felling a tree. If you need the branch to drop parallel to the ground you place a cut under the branch and then at full speed place the saw above that cut and go hard. The branch will snap and float down. One way to get the branch to land at the base of the tree is to cut from the top and let the branch break swing down but still be attached. Then make removing cut to send it right next to the tree.

When limbing on the ground you want to be aware of the branch and if there is any tension that would cause it to pop and sling back when you cut it off. I like to start at the top before cutting the main pieces to the ground. I'll go about 10, good size for the chipper and start cutting the limbs off from there. Working my way every 10' till all the branches are off the top.

Bucking large wood is easy if you use a wedge. A peavey or cant hook is used to turn larger logs over. I cut down as far as possible before rolling. Work on the upside of the log. When dropping the last 20' I like to put small long branches in front of the stump coming off. This keeps it off the ground and makes cutting the larger diameter trunks easier. I do the same as I drop major branches onto the ground if possible. Use the dogs to dig into the tree. It's safer than having the chain operation by your feet and cuts into the wood faster.

I subscribe to Arborage, it's a monthly magazine about the tree industry. It talks about the latest equipment and some tree care issues. I use my Western Garden book if there is a particular fruit tree that I need better understanding of how to prune. I do still look over The Fundamentals of General Tree Work. Now with the advent of YouTube, I invest time looking at other peoples techniques to see what I may learn.

Learning for me never stops.

Tim Bento

Call Us Now for a Free Quote on Tree Removal, Tree Topping, Tree Pruning and Stump Removal.

Call Now (832) 900-4016


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Tree Trimming Cloverleaf

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Kanshoh Trees
5161 San Felipe Street Ste 320, Houston, Texas, 77056

Call Us: (832) 900-4016
http://www.kanshohtrees.com/

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