Is it time to call a tree service in West University Place to remove that old tree? It can be a painful choice to make, but sometimes the tree gets too close to the house, gets too diseased, gets an incurable infestation of some pest, or grows too tall and gets close to a power line. If any of these things occur, its best to do the right thing and get rid of the tree. Although you might have spent hours and hours getting the tree to where it is today, it is almost dishonorable to the tree to allow it to suffer in bad conditions.
Our tree removal service will plan it out, climb up the tree and tie two long ropes near the top. Anchor them on the opposite side of the one that we want it to fall towards. This will allow us to adjust the direction the tree is being lowered in, just in case it starts leaning towards anything it could destroy.
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Once the tree is down, stump removal can be slightly more difficult. We have several choices; use a stump chipper that will completely destroy the visible section of the stump. Or we can dig it out. Digging out the stump is much more thorough, but takes time. You can choose to do this yourself or have the family help. If you have kids this shouldn’t be a problem. Kids often find the thought of digging fun, and are excited to go outside and dig all day long with their friends.
A Stump Grinders Bearing Maintenance Guide
Thought this article might be interesting about what all is involved in preparing for a tree service job.
I have been running a tree service company for 10 years in Bellingham WA.
The first duty being asked about is the rope and saddle. I use the Buckingham Economy Saddle. On the right side of the saddle I have a Petzl Macrograbber for flipline adjusting. It is secured to the Buckingham saddle with a 5/8ths galvanized shackle.
Also on the right side of the Buckingham saddle I have a three foot lanyard with an autolocking steel clip hard spliced into the end to secure the chainsaw.
On the left side of the Buckingham saddle, I clip a lowering rope and a repelling rope onto the lightweight ring toward the back of the saddle. I use a locking Petzl William Carabiner Tri-Act Gate for the repelling rope.
I am constantly on the look-out for frayed or damaged spots on the repelling rope. I prefer a thicker repelling rope. The ½ Arbor-Plex works well.
The lowering rope I use is determined by the application. Most of the work I do is close quarters and requires lowering of branches and rounds. The lowering ropes vary in length from 150' to 300'.
On the left side of the Buckingham there is a small clip. I carry a Fanno 22" Hand saw. This is used for pruning small branches as I ascend and also as a catch device on situations where I need that extra reach to grab the flipline whipped around the tree.
Other devices on the Buckingham include:
Standard figure 8 for repelling and potential maneuvers while in the tree.
I like to carry a 10' rope flipline with a Prusik hitch. This allows for extra stabilizing before making cuts. It also allows for quick attachment as I ascend through branches, keeping me tied in at all times.
On the left side small ring I have attached a small line that has a wedge secured on it.
The next duty asked to describe on the application is the lift truck operation.
I have owned a 1963 55' Ford High Ranger for four years. First I check all fluids. Brake, oil, transmission, and radiator. As well as the hydraulic tank reservoir. Then I start the engine and do a visual inspection of the engine. I do a visual inspection on the tires and check all the lights for proper working order.
Then I engage the main hydraulic level in the cab and begin to inspect for any broken or damaged hydraulic lines. I lower the outriggers to insure smooth operation. I operate the boom from a manual position on the deck, and then climb into the bucket to test the working order of the bucket hydraulic controls.
I follow all guidelines outlined in the American National Standards manual for Arboricultural Operation/ ANSI Z133.1 Section Aerial Devices. Briefly explained:
I am aware of:
Load capacities of the boom, I set wheel chocks if the wheels are on the ground after lowering the outriggers, I constantly scan in the direction I am travelling, I set up for proper traffic clearances, I maintain proper distance for electrical lines, lift branches off lines with pull ropes before cutting, insure area below before releasing branches to the ground, and constantly monitor for any potential danger.
I operated at this level with the High Ranger for two years. 90% of the tree removals that I do I have to climb. I decided that for me and my business the cost of maintaining the truck was not necessary. I use the bucket truck on my personal property but do not currently use it for my tree service.
Operation of brush chippers:
I have thousands of hours of brush chipping experience. The key to efficient chipping is proper staging of the branches. Cedars are the most difficult. On branches that have multiple smaller branches coming off of the main branch I trim them off. It's easier not to fight the branches when stacking and then feeding into the chipper.
Even when pulling the tree over with bull rope, as soon as the back cut is deep enough I will place my first wedge and hammer it in with a small sledge hammer. This helps to get the tree moving in the desired direction, prevents set back if the rope becomes slack, and helps to keep the chain for binding.
The are many techniques for felling trees. The basic is a face cut, no more than a third way through the tree. When cutting for money I use a humbolt cut, but they take a little more time to do and are not necessary for fire wood applications, so I'll use a conventional face cut on most. As your finishing the depth of the face cut you want to check the gun. There is a small raised mark on chainsaws that allow you to aim the face cut to the desired fall line. With that mark lined up and a straight back cut the tree will grab hold of the hinge wood and cause the tree to follow the desired fall line. There are so many factors involved, and each tree is different.
Proper limbing techniques are important to know for both safety reasons and from keeping the saw from getting pinched. You can lead the branch in the direction you desire by following the same procedure as felling a tree. If you need the branch to drop parallel to the ground you place a cut under the branch and then at full speed place the saw above that cut and go hard. The branch will snap and float down. One way to get the branch to land at the base of the tree is to cut from the top and let the branch break swing down but still be attached. Then make removing cut to send it right next to the tree.
When limbing on the ground you want to be aware of the branch and if there is any tension that would cause it to pop and sling back when you cut it off. I like to start at the top before cutting the main pieces to the ground. I'll go about 10, good size for the chipper and start cutting the limbs off from there. Working my way every 10' till all the branches are off the top.
Bucking large wood is easy if you use a wedge. A peavey or cant hook is used to turn larger logs over. I cut down as far as possible before rolling. Work on the upside of the log. When dropping the last 20' I like to put small long branches in front of the stump coming off. This keeps it off the ground and makes cutting the larger diameter trunks easier. I do the same as I drop major branches onto the ground if possible. Use the dogs to dig into the tree. It's safer than having the chain operation by your feet and cuts into the wood faster.
I subscribe to Arborage, it's a monthly magazine about the tree industry. It talks about the latest equipment and some tree care issues. I use my Western Garden book if there is a particular fruit tree that I need better understanding of how to prune. I do still look over The Fundamentals of General Tree Work. Now with the advent of YouTube, I invest time looking at other peoples techniques to see what I may learn.
Learning for me never stops.
Call Us Now for a Free Quote on Tree Removal, Tree Topping, Tree Pruning and Stump Removal in West University Place.
Call Now (832) 900-4016
Removing Tree Limbs the Proper Way
In December trimming the tree means the Christmas tree, complete with ornaments and tinsel, but it can also mean something else--the trimming of your outdoor trees. Yes, in the late fall or early winter is the best time to trim those branches and that is because this is the time of year where the tree is dormant and cutting the branches will result in less sap loss and also lower the risk of fungus and/or insect infestation for the tree itself.
Most trees require regular pruning or trimming. In the forest setting, trees that are left alone will shed branches naturally due to shading, but in a backyard, its the humans who have to do the work. There are many reasons for trimming a tree's branches. It may be because there is dead wood that needs to be removed, it could be that there is storm damage or disease that has damaged part of the tree. It may also be imperative to trim branches to allow for the tree to clear power lines, keep vandals out of the tree (the higher the lowest branches are the less likely people are to try and climb the tree) and it could be that the tree hangs over the road and so for trucks to get past, the tree needs to be trimmed.
We all want our trees to remain strong and healthy, and trimming them while they're young goes a long way in getting them to maturity with less need for trimming or pruning. Doing a little work at first will greatly reduce the work load for years to come, so get out there and trim that tree!
Factors That Influence the Price of Tree Removal
Hiring a tree service provider can be quite expensive most especially if you are just an average guy working to pay a lot of bills. It can also be quite a problem if you can't pay the bills on time given the amount of salary you are receiving. If you will be hiring a company to take care of your trees, you might want to consider some factors that affect the cost of their services. Here are some factors that determine the cost of the tree service you will be availing.
The Service You Will Be Availing
The cost depends on the service you are availing. If you are only hiring a tree service to help you with tree identification or pest control then it would be much cheaper than having a pruning service, tree removal or tree moving service. Make sure you know what specific service you will need for your trees before hiring one. It will help give you an idea how much would the service cost and how much money you should prepare.
There are some situations where service providers have a different rate when it comes to how urgent you want the job to be done. You are not their only clients and if ever you will be asking them to finish the job or prioritize your needs first, then you might pay a little higher than the normal rate. This is because they need to bypass their other clients before you just to make sure that the urgent job you need gets to be done and it won't be fair for them if they won't get any compensation for the trouble of explaining why the other client have been by passed.
The Experience of the Provider
Some tree service provider's charges a lot more than others. The reason behind this is their experience being in business for a couple of years which makes them more efficient in performing the service that need to be done. They have also encountered a lot of problems that made them devise different trouble shooting method in order to make the job a lot smoother. You can also try hiring some inexperienced service providers just make sure they really know what they are doing and that you won't end up paying another provider to redo the job that was supposed to be done by the first service provider.